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When one speaks of a Ferrari watch, it could absolutely beggarly one of three things. First, allowance watches commissioned by il Commendatore, Enzo Ferrari, himself.

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Second, mass-luxury (read “moderately priced”) private-label pieces like those Movado is about to barrage aing year, which Longines, Ferrari Formula by Cartier and others accept produced in the past. Typically, these broadly accessible watches alone had the Prancing Horse logo on the punch and were not co-branded with the watch company, Longines actuality an exception.

And finally, there are the four fine-watchmaking firms that accept gone on to become Ferrari’s accurate haute horology partners: Girard-Perregaux (1994 to 2004), Panerai (2005 to 2010), Cabestan (2010) and Hublot (present). Nearly a year ago, Hublot was alleged the official alarm and watchmaker of both Ferrari and Scuderia Ferrari, as able-bodied as the official alarm of the Ferrari Challenge.

According to acclaimed Ferrari watch beneficiary Sergio Cassano, the adventure of Ferrari watches all started in the 1950s, when, “only anytime acclimation six watches at a time . . . [Enzo] Ferrari purchased [watches to be accustomed as gifts] about alone from the Bolognese jeweler Gerardo Veronesi.” Cassano said best of the aboriginal commissions were produced by Cool Royal. Other examples from the decade are Vetta chronographs—including one accustomed to Eugenio Castellotti for acceptable the 1956 Mille Miglia in a Ferrari 290 MM Scaglietti—as able-bodied as pieces from Longines and Zenith.

Ferrari connected to adjustment small-batch custom watches all through the 1960s and aboriginal 1970s from approaching watchpartner Girard-Perregaux, as able-bodied as Lemania and Rewel. There are abundant examples of these in clandestine collections and at vintage-watch dealers.

By the mid-1970s, Ferrari (man and company) had addled a accord with Longines. These timepieces leaned against the accumulation bazaar as Longines’ celebrity canicule had connected back anesthetized by the ’70s. They were, for the best part, a co-branded, collaborative affair. In accession to the commercially accessible models, il Commendatore connected to agency solid-gold and engraved watches from Longines, giving them out as gifts.

After Longines came a aggregate adventure with Cartier alleged the Ferrari Formula collection. The accord addled by Enzo Ferrari and the then-president of Cartier, Alain Dominique Perrin, included watches and accessories. And Enzo connected his custom of accepting clandestine commissions in solid gold fabricated appropriate up to his afterlife in 1988; the aftermost one was for Pope John Paul II.

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By the time the Ferrari Formula amalgamation had run its course, Ferrari—now afterwards Enzo—took a altered approach. In 1994, Ferrari addled a accord with Girard-Perregaux. “The amalgamation amid Girard-Perregaux and Ferrari has its agent in the accord amid Luigi Macaluso, at that time admiral of GP, and Luca [Cordero] di Montezemolo, [then] admiral [now chairman] of Ferrari,” recounts Macaluso’s son, Stefano, now managing administrator of Girard-Perregaux.

The Girard-Perregaux/Ferrari amalgamation lasted a decade, with an amazing accumulating of watches committed to allegorical Ferraris.

Then, in 2005, it was Panerai’s turn. The Panerai effort, clearly accepted as Ferrari Engineered by Officine Panerai, did not go as calmly as the GP collaboration; bristles years and 20 or so limited-edition models later, the amalgamation dissolved.

Without a long-term, high-end watch partner, Ferrari connected its clandestine characterization mass-market watch efforts—and agreed to an outrageously cher and abundantly limited-edition (only 60 examples) watch produced by artisan watchmaker Cabestan. The Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan, accustomed as “the best absolute watch anytime to account auto racing,” was a one-off project—at $300,000 a pop.

Thanks to its abounding arbitrary changes in direction, by the alpha of 2011, Ferrari’s clue almanac as a watch licensor was arguable at best. So, back Ferrari’s di Montezemolo and Hublot’s then-CEO (now-chairman) Jean-Claude Biver appear a absolute amalgamation this accomplished November, the watch apple captivated its aggregate animation and waited for the aboriginal bang in the road—and didn’t accept to delay long.

Four months later, at the 2012 BaselWorld watch tradeshow, Movado appear its own amalgamation with Ferrari to aftermath mass-luxury timepieces (priced beneath $2,000), to be appear in May 2013. However, the Movado watches will be awash in Ferrari food (that advertise affairs merchandise, not automobiles) and in baddest Ferrari dealerships—the closing of which absolutely treads on Hublot’s turf.

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However, Hublot’s Biver insists the Hublot and Ferrari amalgamation goes far above watches and that the Movado timepieces are irrelevant. Biver said, “The watch is not the best important allotment of this partnership. Ours is an ‘ambassador partnership,’ area Ferrari is an agent of Hublot. Ferrari brings awareness, authority and exclusivity to Hublot in countries area [Hublot] lacks acceptance [such as China, area Ferrari has a two-decade foothold]. Ours is a marriage.”

In the interim, Hublot appear its aboriginal four Ferrari efforts: The cool bound copy (20 pieces) 44-mm carbon-fiber Big Bang Chrono Tourbillon Ferrari, abounding with a red-tinted azure crystal, followed by the 45.5-mm Big Bang Ferrari Abracadabra Gold and Big Bang Ferrari Titanium. All three of these clear watches are said to be awash out above-mentioned to delivery. The fourth alarm is a 45-mm titanium skeleton Tourbillon that celebrates the 50th ceremony of the allegorical Ferrari 250 GTO—and it will alone be offered to 250 GTO owners.

Biver says, “I do not ahead any new Ferrari watch models to be appear for addition 18 months [after the 250 GTO].”

Then again: Who knows? Certainly, this account will be an advancing one.

The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari, appear in 2011, retails for $26,300 (in titanium) or $36,700 (in abracadabra rose gold).

1950s

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Cuervo y Sobrinos

Vetta / Zenith

(All Procured by Gerardo Veronesi Jewelers)

1960s

Girard-Perregaux Damier

Lemania

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Rewel

1970s

Longines

1980s

Ferrari Formula by Cartier

(commercially accessible allowance watches)

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1990s – 2000s

1994 to 2004: Pour Ferrari by Girard-Perregaux Collection

2005 to 2010: Ferrari Engineered by Officine Panerai

2010s

Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan

2020s

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Hublot Ferrari

Movado Scuderia Ferrari

This commodity originally appeared in the Oct. 15, 2012 affair of Autoweek. To get Autoweek delivered to your aperture biweekly, bang here.

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