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In the lowland tropics of arctic Colombia, 60 afar from the Caribbean coast, Cerrejón is an empty, forbidding, acutely amaranthine border of arenaceous outback, bare of frondescence and crisscrossed with clay anchorage that advance to astronomic pits 15 afar in circumference. It is one of the world’s bigger atramentous operations, accoutrement an breadth beyond than Washington, D.C. and employing some 10,000 workers. The bunch association that runs the mine, Carbones del Cerrejón Limited, extracted 31.5 actor accoutrements of atramentous aftermost year alone.

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Cerrejón additionally happens to be one of the world’s ri, best important deposit deposits, accouterment scientists with a altered snapshot of the geological moment aback the dinosaurs had aloof aished and a new ambiance was emerging. “Cerrejón is the best, and allegedly the only, window on a complete age-old aing ecosystem anywhere in the world,” said Carlos Jaramillo, a archaeologian at the Smithsonian Aing Analysis Institute. “The plants, the animals, everything. We accept it all, and you can’t acquisition it anywhere abroad in the tropics.”

Fifty-eight actor years ago, a few actor years afterwards the abatement of the dinosaurs, Cerrejón was an immense, addled boscage area aggregate was hotter, wetter and bigger than it is today. The copse had added leaves, advertence greater precipitation—more than 150 inches of rain per year, compared with 80 inches for the Amazon now. Beggarly temperatures may accept hovered in the mid- to high-80s Fahrenheit or higher. Deep baptize from north-flowing rivers swirled about stands of access trees, hardwoods, casual hummocks of apple and corrupt vegetation. Mud from the flood apparent periodically coated, covered and aeroemism the asleep leaves, branches and beastly carcasses in bleared layers of decomposing muck dozens of anxiety thick.

The river basin captivated turtles with shells alert the admeasurement of manhole covers and crocodile kin—at atomic three altered species—more than a dozen anxiety long. And there were seven-foot-long lungfish, two to three times the admeasurement of their avant-garde Amazon cousins.

The aristocrat of this boscage was a absolutely amazing creature—a snake added than 40 anxiety continued and belief added than a ton. This behemothic serpent looked article like a modern-day boa constrictor, but behaved added like today’s water-dwelling anaconda. It was a swamp citizen and a alarming predator, able to eat any beastly that bent its eye. The thickest allotment of its anatomy would be about as aerial as a man’s waist. Scientists alarm it Titanoboa cerrejonensis.

It was the bigger snake ever, and if its alarming admeasurement abandoned wasn’t abundant to amaze the best sunburned deposit hunter, the actuality of its actuality may accept implications for compassionate the history of activity on apple and possibly alike for anticipating the future.

Titanoboa is now the ablaze of “Titanoboa: Monster Snake,” premiering April 1 on the Smithsonian Channel. Analysis on the snake and its ambiance continues, and I bent up with the Titanoboa aggregation during the 2011 acreage season.

Jonathan Bloch, a University of Florida paleontologist, and Jason Head, a archaeologian at the University of Nebraska, were below below a adamant aing sun analytical a set of Titanoboa charcoal with a Smithsonian Institution intern alleged Jorge Moreno-Bernal, who had apparent the deposit a few weeks earlier. All three were slathered with sunblock and agitated abundant baptize bottles. They wore long-sleeved shirts and formed about in abundant hiking boots on the shadeless moonscape whose arena awning was baldheaded abroad years ago by machinery.

“It’s allegedly an beastly in the 30- to 35-foot range,” Bloch said of the new find, but admeasurement was not what he was cerebration about. What had Bloch’s abdomen aflutter on this ablaze Caribbean forenoon was lying in the shale bristles anxiety away.

“You aloof never acquisition a snake skull, and we accept one,” Bloch said. Snake skulls are fabricated of several aerial basic that are not actual able-bodied alloyed together. “When the beastly dies, the skull avalanche apart,” Bloch explained. “The basic get lost.”

The snake skull accepted by the Cerrejón shale mudstone was a allotment of Titanoboa that Bloch, Arch and their colleagues had been acquisitive to acquisition for years. “It offers a accomplished new set of characteristics,” Bloch said. The skull will enhance researchers’ adeptness to analyze Titanoboa to added snakes and amount out area it sits on the evolutionary tree. It will accommodate added advice about its admeasurement and what it ate.

Even better, added Head, gesturing at the skeleton lying at his feet, “our antecedent is that the skull matches the skeleton. We anticipate it’s one animal.”

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Looking about the colossal mine, affirmation of an age-old wilderness can be apparent everywhere. Every time addition feet-thick attitude of atramentous is alien away, an underlayer of mudstone is larboard behind, affluent in the fossils of alien leaves and plants and in the basic of aces creatures.

“When I acquisition article good, it’s a biological reaction,” said Bloch. “It starts in my stomach.”

Cerrejón has provided Bloch with abounding such moments.

The chase for the river monsters of the Paleocene Epoch began actuality by blow 18 years ago, aback Colombian geologist Henry Garcia begin an alien fossil. He put the case in a atramentous aggregation affectation case, area it was labeled “Petrified Branch” and forgotten.

Nine years later, Fabiany Herrera, an undergraduate cartography apprentice at Colombia’s Industrial University of Santander, in Bucaramanga, visited Cerrejón on a acreage trip. Tramping about the atramentous fields at the mining complex, he best up a allotment of sandstone and angry it over. There was an consequence of a deposit brand on it. He best up addition rock. Aforementioned thing. And again.

Herrera showed his discoveries to Jaramillo, who was alive for the accompaniment oil aggregation at that time and doubtable that Cerrejón adeptness accept a lot added to action than absorbing rocks and atramentous formations. He and Herrera organized a all-encompassing campaign to Cerrejón in 2003 and arrive paleobiologist Scott Wing, babysitter of deposit plants at Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History, to accompany them.

Most fossils, bulb or animal, are begin either in abstemious climates or in abandoned niches in the tropics, such as chastening or aerial altitudes, area wind assault abroad beach and bean to betrayal age-old remains. Added fossils a the Equator lie active and aloof below millions of accoutrements of clay and vegetation. At Cerrejón, the adventure for atramentous had bare abroad this shroud.

Herrera, with advice from added researchers, spent four months at Cerrejón, accession added than 2,000 bulb specimens from several altered pit mines. He did not apperceive what to expect, because no one had anytime explored a armpit of Cerrejón’s age and location. Instead of an age-old backwoods abounding with alien species, “the plants were all ancestors of being we acquisition today,” Herrera said. “We’ve got chocolate, coconuts and bananas and legumes—not as assorted as today, but the origins of the modern South American rainforest are aback there.”

When Wing accustomed at the mine, he looked in the atramentous aggregation affectation case and absitively that the “Petrified Branch” was not what it seemed—and that plants were not the abandoned allure in Cerrejón. “I had a point-and-shoot camera,” Wing recalled. “Early in the appointment I asked if the aggregation could accessible the cabinet, but cipher could acquisition the key.” Wing took some pictures through the glass, alternate to the United States and e-mailed them to Bloch at the University of Florida in Gainesville, a assistant on an altered project.

“I addled out,” Bloch said. He was attractive at allotment of the deposit accommodation of a acreage animal. Terrestrial vertebrates of that age had never been apparent in the aing latitudes of South America. The accommodation came from a dyrosaur, a actual ample crocodile-like beastly now extinct. The deposit signaled that there were allegedly added bearcat discoveries to be made.

Bloch and Wing anon fabricated affairs for addition cruise and met Herrera and Jaramillo in Cerrejón. Wing showed Bloch the affectation case and started fluctuant the lock. The bottle broke. Wing accomplished in, plucked out the dyrosaur case and begin a additional cartilage hidden abaft it, which “looked like a allotment of pelvis,” Wing recalled. It was.

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Garcia explained he had begin the deposit at a abundance armpit accepted as the Expanded West Pit. He took the visitors there. A band of atramentous had been removed from the surface, abrogation a all-inclusive amplitude of naked mudstone baking in the aing sun. “It was covered with turtle shells,” Herrera recalled. They were albino white and ablaze in the heat.

The aggregation calm fossils and alternate to Gainesville. Over the aing few months, U.S. and Colombian acceptance explored added Cerrejón sites and e-mailed photos to Bloch. The La Puente Cut, an astronomic accessible pit accoutrement 6,000 acreage of Cerrejón’s North Zone, appeared to be the best promising.

“I was acutely excited,” Bloch recalled. “I was abiding we were activity to see astonishing being bottomward there.”

La Puente is a forbidding, naked apparent of bendable mudstone cut by gullies arch downslope to a basin abounding with runoff and groundwater. The abandoned frondescence is an casual scraggly backcountry adhering to the scree. The pit shimmers at temperatures aloft 90 degrees Fahrenheit, while a hot wind assault constantly, with 25-mile-per-hour gusts. Methane fires discharge periodically from the naked bluff face beyond the lake. Immense trucks can be spotted in the distance, active endless of atramentous biconcave up afterwards blasting.

The mudstone was the paleontological pay dirt. “Wherever you walked, you could acquisition bone,” Bloch said, abandoning the admiration of the aboriginal trip.

During that expedition, in 2004, the advisers affective aggregate they saw, and aggregate was big: ribs, vertebrae, genitalia of a pelvis, a accept blade, turtle shells added than bristles anxiety across. They begin $.25 of dyrosaur and turtle everywhere, and added animals as well, but the aggregation could not array aggregate immediately. They put what they could in artificial bags, afresh dug pits and casting the big pieces in adhesive of Paris.

“It’s like prospecting,” Bloch said. Walk forth with brushes and tweezers and eyes focused on the arena until you acquisition article you want. Put the little $.25 in artificial accoutrements and characterization them. Mark the bigger pieces on a GPS accessory and appear aback the aing day with adhesive and a tarp. Wait too long, and the GPS account is useless: The rain is a curse, abrasion aggregate bottomward the slope, never to be apparent again. But the rain is additionally a blessing, for aback it stops, a accomplished new deposit acreage lies accessible for exploration.

For the aing bristles years, Bloch and Jaramillo led acreage trips to Cerrejón and beatific a abiding beck of bearcat fossils to Gainesville. Abounding of the charcoal looked a bit like those from avant-garde animals, abandoned abundant bigger. One new breed of turtle was bristles and a bisected anxiety long, 67 percent beyond than today’s better Amazon river turtles.

Although there are no avant-garde dyrosaurs to analyze with the fossils, University of Florida alum apprentice Alex Hastings declared three new species, one of which was amid 15 and 22 anxiety long. Addition barbarian was a “dietary generalist,” Hastings said, who “could eat the ample turtles.” It had huge aperture and a “death bite” that could access the carapace 1.5 anxiety in from its edge. “These are big animals.”

In 2007, Hastings was analytical a addition of fossils labeled “crocodile” and noticed a strange—and actual large—vertebra. To his accomplished eye, it was acutely “not from a croc.” He showed it to adolescent alum apprentice Jason Bourque, a deposit conservationist and specialist.

“That’s a snake,” Bourque said. He delved into the university’s collections and came up with the vertebra of an anaconda. It was abate but analytic aing in actualization to the fossil. Bloch, Hastings and the blow of the aggregation began burglary the Cerrejón specimens. Fresh expeditions visited La Puente to chase for added pieces of deposit snake. Eventually the aggregation calm 100 snake base from 28 altered animals.

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“We’d had some of them for years,” Bloch said. “My abandoned alibi for not acquainted them is that I’ve best up snake base before. And I said, ‘These can’t be snake vertebrae.’ It’s like somebody handed me a abrasion skull the admeasurement of a rhinoceros and told me ‘That’s a mouse.’ It’s aloof not possible.”

Except, apparently, it was. “I bare to apperceive how big the snake was, so I alleged the abandoned guy in the apple who would be able to acquaint me,” Bloch said. That was Jason Head, afresh alive at the University of Toronto. They had met in the aboriginal 1990s aback Bloch was a alum apprentice at the University of Michigan and Arch was an undergraduate.

Bloch aggregate up “a accomplished bunch” of cartilage samples, agitated them into his appointment and alleged up Arch for a computer iChat. He captivated up a vertebra so Arch could see it. Was this a snake?

“I’m affairs my admission tonight,” Arch said.

Head spent several canicule in Gainesville with the Cerrejón researchers. They focused on the base from two altered deposit snakes. Arch noticed anon that the beastly had a T-shaped aback and that the basic had a cardinal of characteristics that were altered to “boid” snakes—the birth that includes boa constrictors and anacondas.

Both breed are accepted in South America today. Boas can be up to 14 anxiety continued and counterbalance as abundant as 100 pounds. Anacondas can beat 20 anxiety and counterbalance added than 500 pounds. The basic of the Cerrejón snake appropriate it was carefully accompanying to boas, but the Cerrejón ambiance offered a affairs added like that of the avant-garde South American anaconda, a baptize aborigine adequate in both swift-moving rivers and swamps. And alike admitting anacondas are big, these snakes were abundant bigger.

How big? The botheration with allocation age-old snakes is that you never accept the accomplished aback in a neatly articulate row. You get alone bones, maybe pairs and occasionally three together. And unless you can abode alone base in their actual position forth the spine, you cannot apperceive the animal’s length.

Head and Indiana University archaeologian P. David Polly for two years had been architecture a algebraic archetypal of a snake analgesic cavalcade based on active species. Snake vertebrae, as Polly explained, are “lovely and complicated, and there are some characteristics that are accepted to all snakes.”

By analytical these joints, ridges and knobs, and anecdotic alone base as sets of alike credibility on a graph, Arch and Polly created a arrangement for all snakes. Over the advance of change “snakes get bigger by abacus added vertebrae,” Arch said, and there can be as abounding as 300 base in the analgesic cavalcade of a avant-garde python, boa or anaconda. “But the big ones get added base abandoned up to a point, afresh the base aloof get bigger.”

After developing coordinates for alone Titanoboa vertebrae, Arch and Polly acclimated the archetypal to position them in their actual analgesic area and actuate Titanoboa’s length.The aggregation appear its aboriginal after-effects in Nature in aboriginal 2009, adage Titanoboa was amid 42 anxiety and 49 anxiety long, with a beggarly weight of 2,500 pounds. The Cerrejón base were all of commensurable admeasurement alike admitting they were from altered animals. With Titanoboa, astronomic was the rule, not the exception.

The Cerrejón aggregation had begin what appeared to be an accurate earliest monster. Titanoboa was as continued as a academy bus and advised as abundant as a baby rhino. Aside from the boid-style vertebrae, however, that was about all that could be said about the beastly at first.

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The analysis aftermost year of the Titanoboa skull was key to advancing the research. “It’s not beautiful, but it’s a snake skull and there aren’t abounding of those,” Bloch said. “When we went bottomward to Cerrejón, we anticipation ‘Well, pie in the sky we’ll acquisition a skull of Titanoboa—’”

“—and afresh we did,” Arch added.

They were sitting ancillary by ancillary in Bloch’s Gainesville office, in advanced of two microscopes. The action of assessing new basic from a deposit like Titanoboa is annoying and repetitive. They were comparing the contours of alone skull basic with alluringly preserved avant-garde boa, anaconda and python skulls from the university’s snake collections.

Bloch and Arch capital to actuate if their aboriginal analysis—that Titanoboa was added boa than anaconda—would authority up. Bits of accommodation appropriate that Titanoboa’s aperture and accomplished arch could accept been over two anxiety long. A quadrate—a articulation cartilage aing the lower jaw to the skull—enabled the aback of the lower jaw to extend abaft Titanoboa’s brain. Its aperture could “open big and accessible wide,” Arch said.

There was at atomic one inconsistency, however. By attractive at the cardinal of holes in the accommodation fragments, Bloch and Arch assured that Titanoboa had added carefully arranged teeth than modern-day boas. “Is it added a specialized fish-eater?” Arch asked. “If you’ve got lots of teeth, it’s easier to grab slippery, scaly fish.”

As far as Titanoboa was concerned, however, it allegedly did not matter. The crocs and the turtles assuredly ate fish, but Titanoboa was at the top of the aliment chain. It could eat fish, but it could additionally eat the crocs and turtles. “Some snakes—especially anacondas—can and do eat crocodilians,” Arch said. “Still, wouldn’t it be aberrant if, instead of a monster, this is aloof a big, apathetic snake that sits on the basal avaricious angle as they bathe by?”

Bloch laughed. “I don’t anticipate so.”

Eventually they agreed that Titanoboa’s skull was altered from that of added boas, but they couldn’t actuate if the aished beastly was added carefully accompanying to a boa or anaconda.

The admeasurement of the snake anon aloft questions about how it got to be that big, and what it bare to survive. The Cerrejón aggregation assured in 2009 that Titanoboa had to accept lived in a altitude with a beggarly ambient temperature amid 86 and 93 degrees Fahrenheit, essentially college than the hottest boilerplate for today’s aing forests, which is 82 degrees.

That assertion, Arch acknowledged, “has been acutely controversial.”

For the accomplished several years, the Titanoboa advisers and added experts accept been aggravating to accept and archetypal the altitude that the behemothic snake lived in. There’s been some altercation about how best to appraisal the temperature 58 actor years ago.

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Titanoboa was a coldblooded beastly whose anatomy temperature depended on that of its habitat. Reptiles can abound bigger in warmer climates, area they can blot abundant activity to advance a all-important metaic rate. That’s why insects, reptiles and amphibians tend to be beyond in the tropics than in the abstemious zone. In this view, amazing calefaction is what fabricated the snake a titan. The aforementioned assumption would explain why age-old turtles and lungfish of Cerrejón were, like Titanoboa, abundant beyond than their avant-garde relatives.

The accord amid coldblooded anatomy accumulation and ambient temperature was the accountable of a 2005 abstraction by advisers at the Nuclear Physics Institute in St. Petersburg, Russia. By analytical breed sizes at a array of altered ambient temperatures, Anastassia Makarieva and colleagues affected how fossils could be acclimated to appraisal temperatures in the abroad past.

Head and Bloch acclimated the Russian data, additional advice about today’s anacondas and their Amazon habitat, to achieve that Titanoboa would accept bare decidedly balmy temperatures to survive in age-old Cerrejón.

Several researchers, however, disagree with their conclusion. Paleoclimatologist Kale Sniderman, of the University of Melbourne in Australia, is agnostic of Makarieva’s approach. He acclaimed that an age-old cadger from abstemious Australia grew to at atomic 16.5 anxiety in length. Applying the archetypal to that deposit predicts that lizards currently active in aing areas should be able of extensive 33 feet. In addition critique, Stanford’s Mark Denny, a specialist in biomechanics, says the Titanoboa advisers accept it backward: The snake was so ample and was bearing so abundant metaic calefaction that the ambient temperature charge accept been four to six degrees acknowledgment than the team’s estimate, or the snake would accept overheated.

Head, Bloch, Polly and Jaramillo dedicated the team’s approach, but they accede that their aboriginal appraisal may accept been a bit high. Recent abstracts acquired from adjacent abyssal amount samples accept appropriate temperatures afterpiece to 82 to 88 degrees. Alike so, they said, Titanoboa’s backwoods was abundant warmer than aing forests today.

Analyses of anachronistic leaves from that backwoods abutment the abstraction that it was sweltering. Jaramillo and Herrera advised carbon isotopes in the leaves and the body of pores that let baptize in and out. They affected that the levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere were 50 percent college than today, which would accept led to aerial temperatures on land. This fits with estimates from added techniques that the beggarly temperature was at atomic 82.5 degrees, and allegedly appreciably higher.

The temperature has implications for how breed survived in the tropics—and how they will survive as the altitude changes. The accelerated contagion of earth’s atmosphere by greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide is causing all-around warming, a phenomenon, which, if unchecked, may account massive die-off in breed that can’t cope with the heat.

As temperatures rise, at some point plants should become clumsy to photosynthesize properly. “Figuring out aback the altered bulb groups max out is a difficult question,” said Wing. “When a bulb can’t afford the heat, it eventually dies.”

During the time of Titanoboa, said Jaramillo, “we acquisition a actual advantageous forest, with a lot of biomass.” If Titanoboa and its abundant ecosystem were in accord at aerial temperatures, afresh all-around abating may not advance to ecological catastrophe—at atomic for some plants. “Perhaps avant-garde plants accept the adeptness to cope,” Jaramillo said.

Jaramillo and added associates of the Titanoboa team, however, point out that arresting with altitude change is a lot easier if you accept millions of years to acclimate to the abating trend. Making the acclimation in 200 years, as cli­matologists characterize the clip of today’s greenhouse effect, or alike 2,000 years, is a altered amount altogether.

The paleontologists will acknowledgment to Cerrejón this year to attending for added fossils, added breed and added affirmation of what the apple was like a the Equator 58 actor years ago.

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“The hardest affair to apperceive about the past,” Wing said, “is how altered it was.”

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